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At Mulago, the main hospital in the country, patients do not get fed or have their bedsheets washed unless their families pay extra. Paying extra is a rare occurrence in a place where many patients come from the countryside—especially when most are subsistence farmers and infrequently deal in money. Instead of paying for these basic provisions, the patient usualy comes with a family member who sleeps on a reed mat by their bed, and cooks and washes laundry for them. Medical staff pick their way carefully down the halls so as not to step on anyone.

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